Wednesday, January 26, 2011

STEFANO LUBIANA BRUT

- Southern Tasmania
- $29-$40
- Cork (Diam)
- 12.5%alc

Although his range now includes some of Tasmania's finest pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, it was with sparkling wine production that Steve Lubiana first cut his teeth on the island state. The Stefano Lubiana Brut remains one of Australia's best non-vintage styles.

An attractive note of white chocolate coated almonds announce the aromatic arrival of Stefano Lubiana's Brut, which is quite lively and fresh in its aperitif-style make-up, thanks to further suggestions of zingy citrus sherbet and light butter adding fragrant, cocktail party-esque appeal. Its very tight, crisp palate reveals a salty lick of oyster shell and granny smith apple flavour with grapefruit-like acids, driven along by a pulsating, mineral thread which makes its presence felt strongest through a zippy, drying finish marked additionally by a sly note of white cheese/leesy complexity. The only downside is the palate's a touch lean, especially through the middle section, where a fraction more richness and textural interest would've aided its fine structural elements immeasurably.

ü There's so much to like here as an aperitif style Tasmanian fizzer, but, call me boring, because 9 times out of 10 I'd prefer the ever reliable Jansz for $10 less. Drink now.
90 points


2 comments:

  1. The vintage is a big step up over the NV (from memory) but I'd have to disagree with you that it's better than Jansz. The last couple of Jansz NV I've had have tasted like lemonade....

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  2. It's healthy to disagree Andrew :) I'll put my senses out for some Schweppes-esque Jansz (I've actually been drinking more of the rose lately), but to be honest, there probably isn't another wine I drink so much of and think so little about. :)

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