Tuesday, January 4, 2011

JIM BARRY WATERVALE RIESLING 2010

- Clare Valley, SA
- $11-$21
- Screwcap
- 12.5%alc

Jim Barry's Watervale resides in the band of readily available, consistently good South Australian reislings whose cheap prices complement the competitive nature of Australia's reisling class. Clearly, Australian riesling lovers should have significantly more spare change than nebbiolo addicts. :)

Without being piercingly aromatic, Jim Barry's 2010 Watervale announces a floral fragrance of juicy limes and gentle paw paw, both of which are succeeded by an assertive whiff of apples intriguingly lifted by a note of cinnamon spice, which adds much appreciated (apple filled cinnamon donut-like?) quirkiness to an otherwise straight forward nose. As soon as it hits the mouth however, there's a noticeable lack of the cut and drive that's benefited Clare's best 2010 rieslings, although this wine is not without its up-sides by any means. There's a faint mineral thread that struts beneath its assertive lemon/lime citrus, apple and delicately spiced flavours, but it progresses with an emerging, broader hint of candied lime that robs it of the clarity I ultimately seek. Length is no highlight for me here either, as its fruit finish drops away slightly to reveal a minor deficiency of acidic grip and authority. Drunk cold it shows much more tightness and shape, so leave it in the fridge.

O I honestly expected more of Jim Barry's 2010 Watervale (especially given some of the positive press), but as I look over my notes on Clare's 2010 rieslings, it appears the better wines generally sit at a higher price point than this. It's still fairly good, if not great value. Drink to 2016.
89 points


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