Thursday, October 21, 2010

GROSSET OFF-DRY WATERVALE RIESLING 2010

- Clare Valley, SA
- $28-$36
- Screwcap
- 11.5%alc

After two straight 'failed' attempts, 2010 marks the first vintage of Grosset's Off-dry Riesling. The new label is inspired by Grosset's intentions of expanding his own range, which, as Jeff puts it himself, can be done in any of three ways; ' working with new varieties, blending old varieties, or doing new things with old varieties'. Obviously, Grosset's Off-dry Riesling represents the third of these methods.

On first inspection Grosset's Off-dry riesling reveals a floral perfume in true regional style, but its lemon/lime citrus notes, which often dominate Watervale riesling, are held in a tidy balance alongside aromas of lavender, slate and perhaps even light spice. Although there may be a suggestion of tinned pineapple in the bouquet, there's absolutely nothing sugary sweet or overtly musky. Its much talked about 16g/l of residual sugar provides a persisting softness and luscious thread to its tinned pineapple, mineral and apple cider flavours, without pushing even remotely towards cloying territory (to be expected really). Like Grosset's other 2010 rieslings, the acidity really sings a show-stealing song, by directing a long, tangy pineapple-like structure that clings to its sweet-edged riesling fruit with real zip and authority. For a wine labelled as Off-dry, it ends particularly taut and crisp, with ensuing grip applied to a very long finish.

ü+ Given the credentials of the maker, it shouldn't come as a surprise that this is the best off-dry riesling I've had from either Clare or the Eden Valley. Its smart balance of residual sweetness and acidity provides a great platform for the future of off-dry styles in both regions. Drink to 2020.
93 points


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