Sunday, August 22, 2010

TAHBILK VIOGNIER 2009

- Nagambie Lakes, VIC
- $11-$19
- Screwcap
- 14.0%alc

Tahbilk is rightfully recognised as a standout producer of firm, rustic, long living reds and superlative marsanne, but I also see them as one of Australia's best makers of good, cheap viognier. The 2007 release (91pts) was a reserved, surprisingly complex and bell-clear viognier of considerable finesse.

Light-mid yellow, Tahbilk's 2009 displays a slightly flinty, more savoury varietal fragrance of grilled nuts, apricot kernel, cloves and melon in a reserved style devoid of viognier's overt, apricoty showiness; however, it does reveal a warm hint of spirit. Quite broad and brassy, its oily-textured palate presents nuances of apricot syrup and clove flavour, but it finishes somewhat short and flat, lacking the extensive influence of bright acidity to enhance both length and freshness.

O Acceptable yet uninspiring, the 2009 Viognier is far from the pick of Tahbilk's current releases. Drink to 2011.
87 points


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